INTRODUCTION

The southern zone of Costa Rica has been claimed by many to be the most beautiful spot on this planet. With one of the last great stands of unspoiled primary rain forest in Central America, its deep "sweet gulf" is teeming with abundant aquatic life, and has one of the highest levels of plant and animal species in the entire world. This is often an overlooked region of the country and is a treasure trove of experience for both the sight-seeing tourist and adventure traveler alike. Verdant mountain peaks rise up out of forested valleys as clear sparkling streams cascade down from the heights. Farmland, pasture and rainforest blend with giant mangrove swamps, where both fishing and bird watching are unparalleled. It’s all here and ready for you to enjoy.

Before we begin, let me clear something up. The southern zone of Costa Rica, though not networked with high-speed trains or perfectly maintained superhighways (Thank God!), is EASY TO GET TO. This area is absolutely accessible, and has no more potholes or landslides than any other ‘isolated’ area of Costa Rica, including San Jose. In addition (as you will see in these pages), there are hundreds of places to stay, eat, and play for travelers of every budget in every significant area of interest. Period. It’s NO PROBLEM to come here, any time of year. As a matter of fact, the southern zone had significantly less problems with flooding, landslides, and other storm damage from the hurricanes of 1996 than its neighbors to the north (Guanacaste, the Central Valley, Limon)..

Another fact about the southern zone of Costa Rica is it’s virtually crime-free. If you have heard any ‘horror stories’ about the ‘high’ level of crime in Costa Rica, you will find that the vast majority of crime occurs in the Central Valley, specifically in San Jose and its suburbs. Sure, there are a few scattered thefts here and there throughout the rest of the country--this is planet Earth, you know--but anything more than that is very rare, though extremely over publicized. Compare this country to New York, Los Angeles, Miami or any significant city in Europe in regards to real crime statistics, and all your concerns will simply fade away. You are much safer here than you would be almost anywhere else in the world. And that is a fact! The natives, though occasionally hard to communicate with if you don’t speak Spanish, are overwhelmingly friendly, and always ready to help if the need arises. Come on down for a real southern "Welcome!".

In regards to the information contained in the GUIDE, it is assumed that: (1) you have already done some research on Costa Rica and on what you are hoping to experience here; (2) you have at least one of the major guide books available throughout the world (The New Key to Costa Rica, Frommer’s, Lonely Planet, Le Petit Fute, etc.), and (3) you read English. Therefore, though some basic travel information is included, but detailed bus and airline schedules will not be found here, as you can locate these very quickly and easily either before you arrive in Costa Rica or immediately when you get here. It is also assumed that you have a general road map of Costa Rica. This booklet includes maps of most of the major towns of the southern zone but not the roads between them. Almost all the bookstores (librerias) in the country carry at least one type of general map of the country with the major roads clearly marked.

Finally, many of the details that usually accompany a general guide book of Costa Rica (history, culture, geography, politics, economics, etc.) will not be found here, due to the above cited assumptions, and also due to the much smaller scope of this publication. For the average tourist, that type of information is something more appropriate for a sociology class, anyway. Hey, you’re on vacation! Don’t sweat the details--just relax, enjoy yourself, and drive in.....to the southern zone, that is.

GETTING DOWN UNDER

By car: If you are traveling by car, the best route, according to the many rent-a-car tourists we’ve talked to, is to drive down the Pacific coast. At Dominical, you can turn northwest and meet the Inter-American Highway (IAH) in San Isidro de General, following it down the rest of the way to Palmar and beyond or, you can simply continue on down the coast through Uvita, getting to Palmar over the fairly decent grave road. The second route is quite a bit faster than going through San Isidro. The other major route to the southern zone is via the Inter-American Highway directly from San Jose. You will cross over the Cerro de Muerte (Ridge of Death) at an altitude of about 3,500 meters (11,500 feet). If this sounds like more fun to you, go for it. The time difference is not that great.

By bus: TRACOPA, with the most comfortable buses in the country, has several runs daily to the southern zone, both direct (directo) and regular (corriente). Transporte Blanco Lobo runs tow buses a day to Puerto Jimenez (check the front of the bus for destination). All buses go down the Inter-American Hwy through the mountains, and pass through San Isidro and Palmar.

By plane: Both SANSA (the government’s domestic airline)and TravelAir have daily flights to Palmar Sur, Puerto Jimenez, and Golfito.

No matter how you get down to this pristine and beautiful side of Costa Rica, a rudimentary knowledge of Spanish will prove to be VERY helpful. Despite what any person or book may tell you, most Ticos do NOT speak English or any other foreign language, and even their Spanish is not what you would call textbook perfect. If you don’t speak Spanish, you would be well advised to invest in a good phrasebook and study it thoroughly before you get here. We have included a few words here and there to help you out (italics), but there is no substitute for conversational skill in the native language. Good luck.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are almost as many styles and types of lodgings in the southern zone of Costa Rica as there are people who run them. The selection is excellent, from basic budget to rustic luxury, though the emphasis is definitely on simple comfort in a typical setting.

To save time and effort, this guide will give you the most common features of all the hotels, cabins, and other types of lodging available in the southern zone. The following items and conditions will be found in every place included here, and the occasional exceptions will be noted when necessary.

Cleanliness is the rule. In fact the standards of both the Tico and foreign owned businesses in the area of hygiene and general upkeep of the rooms, is positively exceptional. All guests are provided with soap, toilet paper, a bath towel, a sheet, a pillow with case, and any extras of these items upon request (within reason). Fans are almost always provided, usually the floor standing type. Check-in times are basically whenever you arrive, and check-out is generally 2:00pm.

We have found the accommodations here in the southern zone to be clean, safe, and hospitable during our personal travel in the region. We are confident that you will also find this to be true. All prices will be given in the currency of Costa Rica, the colon, unless U.S. dollars are used (indicated by a $ before the amount).

GENERAL INFORMATION

Shopping in the south is great, especially for basic items. There are plenty of small stores (pulperia, abastecedor, almacen). Every town with more than 30 people will have one. There are also some fairly large supermarkets (supermercado), and one new one that, if it wasn’t for the Spanish words on the products and above the aisles, it would look very much like a Safeway or A&P back in the States (see the Cuidad Neily section).

Southern Costa Ricans (Ticos) are typically very friendly and helpful. Although it might not be a good idea to stop somewhere in the middle of downtown San Jose to ask for directions in broken Spanish or exchange money on the street, it is not only perfectly safe to do this in the southern zone, but quite often recommendable. As was mentioned earlier, street crime down here is almost non-existent, and the people, both Ticos and foreign expatriates living here, are overwhelmingly outgoing, helpful, and friendly. Don’t be surprised if you get invited to someone’s home for a meal, or out on a boat for an impromptu fishing trip. It happens a lot!

The rest of the GUIDE is dedicated to the specific businesses in each area that will help you maximize your enjoyment of this wonderful and unique part of the planet. Follow your intuition, go with the flow, and live your dreams--it’s all here for you in the southern zone of Costa Rica.

THE GATEWAY LANDS - PALMAR

The town of Palmar, the gateway to the southern zone of Costa Rica, is located right at the base of a extensive mountain range that begins north of San Isidro De General running south and east through the center of the country, and then west along the Pacific coast. Palmar is situated at the east side of the wide, generally flat Diquis Valley, which extends west from the basin of the Rio Grande de Terraba and south to the small town of Chacarita on the Inter American Highway (IAH). Palmar is a rich area producing abundant quantities of bananas for domestic and foreign consumption. The city is actually made up of two towns, Palmar Norte and Palmar Sur, on either side of the Rio Grande de Terraba. Palmar Norte has many stores and is an important commercial hub at the intersection of two major thoroughfares, the IAH and the coastal highway. Palmar Sur has the area’s largest municipal airport used by the country’s local airlines and charter aircraft.

SIERPE

This small town on the picturesque Rio Sierpe is the entry point to the extensive wetlands of the lower Diquis Valley, the giant mangrove swamps, which line the banks of the river, and numerous tributary rivers meandering their way to the Pacific Ocean and to the ocean side community and wilderness lodge area of Drake’s Bay. The Sierpe River and its environs house crocodiles, caiman, monkeys and hundreds of species of birds, including rare varieties of tanager, heron, trogon, kingfisher, etc. There is also fantastic fishing throughout the year. The town has a general store, public telephones, and several boat docks.

Getting to Sierpe is easy. It is approximately 17 kilometers south of the IAH, a drive of around 30 minutes. The road passes through Palmar Sur and several large banana plantations. A taxi can take you there from Palmar Norte or from the airport in Palmar Sur, and there is also hourly bus service between Sierpe and Cortes, all of the buses stopping in Palmar Norte to pick up passengers.

DRAKE BAY

Named after Sir Francis Drake, who as legend has it, buried a rich treasure somewhere along the coast in this area. This wide bay on the Pacific is one of the most picturesque spots in Costa Rica, where lush lowland rainforest flows down verdant mountains sides to meet the warm, rolling surf of the Pacific Ocean. The bay itself lies at the base of the Osa Peninsula, home of the would famous Corcovado National Park. Cano Island, a national park famous for Columbian sphere, excellent diving, and world-class sport fishing, can be seen from the shore. The best way to get there is by water from the town of Sierpe, where there are many taxi boats available. The trip down the Sierpe River is breathtaking as it meanders its way towards the Pacific among giant mangrove forests, with majestic mountains rising up on both sides as a backdrop to your trip. During the dry season, there is also a passable road leaving from the east side of the Osa Peninsula on the Golfo Dulce near the town of Rincon, though once you get to the tiny village of Drake you can only travel by foot or boat.

All types of tours are available from the wilderness lodges of Drake’s Bay and the surrounding beaches. Sport fishing, diving, snorkeling, hiking, Corcovado excursions, trips to Cano Island, bird watching, visiting waterfalls, and horseback riding are just a few of the options. The lodges mentioned below are all located right by the beach, providing the soothing backdrop of gently rolling surf for your daytime adventures and nighttime dreams, and they all also have their own boats for both transportation and tours.

THE OSA PENINSULA

The world-famous Osa Peninsula, one of the most rich and diverse places on the entire planet, has been described by National Geographic as "the most biologically intense place on Earth". The main feature of the Osa is the 42,000-hectare Corcovado National Park, home to almost 400 species of birds, 140 species of mammals, 116 species of amphibians and reptiles, over 500 species of trees, and more than 6000 species of insects. The park protects endangered species such as the jaguar, puma, crocodile, tapir, poison dart and golden frogs, and the harpy eagle. The beaches of the Osa are also major nesting sites for several varieties of sea turtle. If you really want to experience a lowland tropical rain forest in its most pristine and natural state, yet also enjoy the tropical beach environment, the Osa Peninsula is the place to go.

The east side of the Osa Peninsula is bordered by the Golfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf), an incredible marine paradise where humpback whales, whale sharks, dolphins, and tuna come to breed and play. The unique ecosystem here provides not only an ideal environment for aquatic mammals, but also for world-class fishing. There are also some excellent surf breaks for those looking for the ‘perfect’ wave.

There are many ways to get to the peninsula. Both SANSA and TravelAir fly in to Puerto Jimenez every day. During the dry season, there is a direct road from Drake’s Bay if you are staying there first. A ferry runs daily at 11:30am from Golfito (on the other side of the gulf) to Pto. Jimenez. Buses from San Jose run directly to Puerto Jimenez, as does a bus from Ciudad Neily in the south at 2:00pm daily. If you are coming down by car, make a right at the "Servicentro Corcovado" gas station in Chacarita on the IAH. 21 kilometers in you will find "El Mirador", a nice little soda shop set high upon a ridge with fantastic views of the Diquis Valley on one side and the Los Mogos islands in the Golfo Dulce on the other. This is a perfect spot for taking pictures and taking a break from driving. 21 kilometers farther on you will descend from the mountain ridges into the quaint little town of Rincon, right on the shore of the gulf, where WE-the Rincon Tourist & Surf Center-are located. Stop here to get all the latest information and more specific details about exactly where you plan to go and how to best enjoy the area. Kayak rentals and professional massages are available too. Watch for our road signs.

LA PALMA

About 11 kilometers south of Rincon you come to the small farming community of La Palm, which is the second largest town on the OSA Peninsula. La Palm is not only the departure and return point for Corcovado National Park through its eastern entrance at Los Patos, but also has a beautiful sand and coral beach (Playa Blanca) with a restaurant and boats for hire. A Guyami Indian Reservation is located on the border of Corcovado (but much closer than Los Patos to the town), with its own primary rainforest and handicrafts for sale. The town has public administrated phones, several stores, and a taxi service for those on foot. Four buses a day pass through La Palma going to and from Pto. Jimenez.

CENTRAL PENINSULA

For those seeking the core experience of primary rain forest and / or Corcovado national Park, without the usual multi day commitment of hiking and camping and the other hassles of entering the park by the standard pathways (and with the standard crowds), this area is an excellent option.  The El Tigre station of the park is located about one kilometer before you arrive in Dos Brazos on the Rio Tigre (look for sign on main road for the Dos Brazos turnoff 4 km north of Puerto Jimenez).   right off the road on the left side so information is available right there.   Dos Brazos is also the old center of the gold mining industry in the peninsula, before the Park was formed, and the old mining tunnels and even the no-so-old miners themselves can be found nearby.  Isolated yet with easy access via the well-maintained road, this area will scratch your rainforest itch and introduce you to some of the peninsula's cultural heritage as well.

PUERTO JIMENEZ

This frontier town is the primary entry point for people coming into the Osa. It is the largest community on the peninsula, and the only one with private phone service. Therefore, it is the major transportation and communication hub of the area. The office of Corcovado National Park is located here, as well as a bank, post office, and municipal dock. As mentioned earlier, Pto. Jimenez is accessible by land, sea and air.

Being near the heart of the peninsula, Pto. Jimenez is home to dozens of breeding pairs of scarlet macaws, which can be seen every day flying through town or squawking in the trees. It is an excellent base for exploring the Golfo Dulce, too, with its amazing marine life. Many possibilities exist for the adventurer here.

CABO MATAPALO

The area at the southern tip of the Osa Peninsula is an incredible experience in nature set in a tropical beachside environment.  Four types of monkeys, scarlet macaws, toucans, coatis, raccoons, sloths, and many other tropical species abound here, and are easily observable.  Pumas and leopards are occasionally spotted and a 90 foot waterfall is only a short hike away.  Well-maintained trails lead up from the beach area through the dense rain forest on the cliffs above, and the beaches themselves with their reefs and tide pools are very clean and user friendly.  

To get there, take the road leaving town from the southeast for about 30 minutes. After you reach the small school on your right and the hills begin to rise again in front of you, you will re-enter a rain forest environment on both sides of the road. After you cross a wide, rocky stream at the bottom of a steep gully, you will be only about one minute from the turn-off to the beach area, where Hacienda Bahia Esmeraldo is located. The road will take a sharp turn to the right and begin climbing--and the turnoff is on your LEFT as you make the curve. You will see a large white concrete gate, which is at the entrance to the 4-wheel-drive only road that winds through the small eco-friendly development.

CARATE

The end of the road.  When you arrive in Carate on the far western side of the Osa Peninsula, you are at the true frontier of this land, the wildest and most remote region on the mainland.  The natural beauty of this area is indescribable, with verdant ridges full of monkeys and scarlet macaws cascading down to a wide black sand beach with nothing but driftwood and coconut shells on it for miles on end.  This is the primary entry point to Corcovado National Park, and the airstrip and the road end at exactly the same spot at the Rio Carate.  The only services are provided by  a small pulperia and there is no town.  The cooperative taxi will get you there from Puerto Jimenez every morning or a private taxi at any time.  You can also book a chartered flight from anywhere in the country.  No matter how you get there the deserted sandy beaches with tall palms full of coconuts and almond trees full of scarlet macaws, and unridden waves peeling offshore almost every day of the year, will be waiting patiently.

THE GOLFO DULCE COAST

The following places of interest to the traveler are located along the eastern and southern shores of the "Sweet Gulf". This picturesque area offers the opportunity of enjoying some of the best of Costa Rica’s beaches and water activities, without the crowds and touristy atmosphere of the northern part of the country. The Golfo Dulce, as mentioned earlier, is home to an incredible variety of sea life, including dolphins, whales, flying fish, sea birds of all types, and world-class game fish. Another feature of the area is access to the Osa Peninsula across the water, through this side of the gulf has thousands of acres of its own rain forest as well.

GOLFITO

Golfito gets its name from its location inside a miniature San Francisco-style bay or gulf, which is accessible through a narrow channel from the Golfo Dulce. This old banana port town, strung out along the shore between the steep forested hills of the Golfito National Wildlife Refugee and the gulf, is almost two towns in one. The northern end has the airport, the deposito libre for duty-free shopping (very popular among the Ticos), and the hospital which is close to the attractively landscaped US-style housing and other buildings of the original United Fruit Company development. The southern end of town holds the town center, with its many bars and restaurants, several hotels, a few marinas, the municipal dock, and other typical small town development. The main road takes you down the entire length of the seven-kilometer town.

Golfito can be reached by sea from Puerto Jimenez, by land through Rio Claro on the IAH, and directly by air via SANSA, TravelAir, or other local airlines. Tours are generally to the rain forest above the town or to beaches outside of the small gulf, and taxi boats can be hired at the municipal dock in the central part of town.

ZANCUDO BEACH

This lazy beachside community is stretched out along six kilometers of coastline south of Golfito on the Golfo Dulce. The road runs along the beach for the entire length of the area, with about 50 meters separating it from the wide sandy shore. The large private lots are little sandy slices of paradise, with tall coconut palms and dozens of other tree varieties providing shade and fruit for the very attractively built homes and businesses. The Rio Sabalo opens up to the gulf about halfway through the area, making the eastern half of Zancudo a peninsula. Mangrove swamps dominate the waters on the river side of the isthmus, which makes boat transportation easy with several docks on the calm estuary. There is some rainforest reserve in certain areas along the road, and the fishing is excellent. There are also several excellent beach breaks for those seeking rideable waves.

One can get to Zancudo by water or land. There is a collective taxi boat which leaves Golfito at the municipal dock every day at noon, and a bus leaves Golfito every day at 2:00pm from the parking lot just in from of the dock.. There is also a bus leaving Ciudad Neily at 1:30 for the Zancudo/Pavones area, all of which stop in Conte for bus transfers. There is a sign marking the turnoff for Zancudo (to the right) 2 kilometers after you take the northern road from Conte. Once you get there, all the places below are either right on or just across the road from the beach, so access to everything that Zancudo has to offer is available to all.

PAVONES

This small community on the southwestern frontier of Costa Rica is not only the place to ride one of the longest ‘perfect’ waves in the world, but also it’s a little-known getaway for those with more subdued and relaxing activities in mind. The coastal hills slide steeply down to wide sandy beaches and rocky tide pools, where large snook and other tasty fish can be caught right from shore. The rainforest wildlife gets up close and personal in the aforementioned and sparsely populated area. The road branches off 2 kilometers west of Conte, and the same buses that take you to Zancudo Beach can bring you to the center of Pavones. Taxi boats can also get you there from Golfito of Pto. Jimenez. For those who prefer, there is an airstrip in Banco just a few kilometers down the road.

THE INTER-AMERICAN HIGHWAY

By land, the Inter-American Highway (IAH) is the primary corridor of transportation through the southern zone. The highway heads southeast from Palmar almost directly to the border with Panama at Paso Canoas. There are many facilities along the way, and the following three towns are the largest along this stretch of road.

RIO CLARO

Located 57 kilometers southeast of Palmar, this junction with the road to Golfito is a major traffic hub. There are many stores and public pay phones, as well as a gas station and taxi service right along the highway.

CIUDAD NEILY

Just 17 kilometers from the Panamanian border, this large town is a major transportation center for the southern zone housing the region’s only bus terminal. It is also the largest urban center between Palmar and David in northern Panama. One can go up into the steep forested mountains to the heights of San Vito and the Wilson Botanical Gardens from here, or go west through the fincas and flatlands to the beaches of Zancudo and Pavones. The town is surrounded on three sides by green mountains and hills and there is an Indian reservation close by.

PASO CANOAS