Guatemala, Modern and Colonial
- Antigua

The 'Modern' is the capital, Guatemala City, one of the more cosmopolitan and attractive capitals in Central America with fine hotels and restaurants, an active nightlife and excellent shopping in the arcades along Reforma Avenue. There's plenty to see - we've listed the main attractions below. Antigua represents the 'colonial' and is just 45 minutes drive away.

City Sights

The Relief Map of the Republic in the northern part of the city, was constructed in 1905 by engineer Francisco Vela. It's huge -- 900 square metres -- and is best viewed from special platforms on the sides.

The Cathedral, overlooking Central Park, was built between 1782 and 1868 and houses many art treasures, including some from the old cathedral in Antigua.

Kaminal Juyu, in the western section of the city, is an important pre-Hispanic archaeological site. Athough much of this large site has been lost to urban encroachment, what remains is many outstanding examples of sculpture and architecture.

The National Palace, on Central Park, one of the city's most prominent historic buildings, featuers murals by Alfredo Galvez Suarez depicting the conquest of Guatemala. You can visit some of the ornate chambers in the palace with prior permission.

Museums abound in Guatemala City. Here's a brief museum-hopping tour.

Popol Vuh Museum exhibits Mayan artefacts from all over the country and is the only museum in the world with a Mayan sarcophagus. Colonial relics include silverware, paintings and large sculptures decorated with silver.

Ixchel Museum has a fine collection of native costumes, ceramics and jewelry.

National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology has six permanent exhibits, a hall for special exhibitions and an extensive library of books on archaeology, ethnology and physical anthropology of the Indians of the Americas.

National Museum of Natural History contains sections on zoology, palaeontology, botany, geology and mineralogy.

National Museum of History and Fine Arts contains contemporary paintings and sculpture, 19th century portraits, flags, photographs and maps.

Antigua

Which brings us to "colonial" and Antigua Guatemala or "the Most Noble and Loyal City of Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala" as it was entitled by Spanish royal decree. Antigua was third (after Mexico City and Lima) in importance and splendor in the Americas until it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1773.

Antigua has retained its historic character, preserved its monuments and kept is original architectural style intact. In 1979, UNESCO declared with city a Cultural Heritage Landmark. Buildings with Spanish facades, arcades and courtyards, reconstructed buildings and colonial ruins that tell the story of Guatemala's colonial past have made Antigua one of the country's most popular tourist centers.

The best time to visit is Holy Week (Easter) but be sure to make hotel reservations well in advance. Colorful processions fill the city's streets but even more beautiful and striking are the sawdust carpets they step on. Sawdust is dyed in different colors, then designs are cut out of cardboard and the sawdust is sieved through the cuttings. The results are astonishing.

But if you can't make it for Easter, don't worry. Antigua is a place where you can immerse yourself in history and culture at any time of the year. Listed below are a few highlights:
Every day except Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday is a market day. While Antigua's cannot compare with the spectacular markets in western highlands towns like Chichicastenango, it is still well worth seeing -- full of color and movement as Indian families descend from the surrounding mountain villages to sell their produce and fine traditional handicrafts. Antigua is world famous for its jade, ceramics and woodwork

. Several of Antigua's colonial mansions have been restored. Casa Popenoe (Calle 5 east and avenida 1 south) is a fine example of an elegant old home with its plain outside wall concealing the fountains and gardens of the courtyard within.

The Cathedral of San Jose was built between 1543 and 1680 and Guatemala's conquistador, don Pedro de Alvarado, is believed to buried in an unmarked tomb behind the building. Earthquakes have left only the wall structure are still standing but excavation has revealed several crypts beneath the cathedral, one containing an altar, crucific and statues of saints.

Colonial Museum is housed in the old Royal and Pontifical University of San Carlos de Borromeo (1675) and contains a famous library and colonial art treasures. La Merced Church is one of Antigua's most famous buildings and one of the few that survived the 1773 earthquake. The courtyard of the adjacent convent contains an elaborate fountain.

The Palace of the Captains General is made up of 26 two-story arches which extend for 100 yards. It is the seat of the provincial government and has a long history of destruction and reconstruction.

San Francisco, which covers two city blocks, once housed hundreds of monks, and contains the remains of a church and college.

Antique Book Museum is housed in Guatemala's first print shop and contains valuable first editions, historic documents and fine 17th century etchings on stone.

Just four miles from Antigua is Ciudad Vieja, the site of the second capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala. The city was destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1541 but the original church has been excavated intact along with the third floor of the Governor's Palace.

- Nuevo Mundo -